Scrambling on Skye

The first successful Cuillin Ridge Traverse was in June 1911 by Leslie Shadbolt and A.C MacLaren. Both were accomplished climbers and after much meticulous planning and careful preparation they completed the traverse in 12 hours and 18 minutes from Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Gillean. In addition they enjoyed a 2.5 hour walk in from Glenbrittle and then of course the walk back down to Sligachan from their final summit – often the hardest part of the day!

The South to North traverse has become the “normal” direction in summer conditions with the famous technical sections being climbed rather than abseiled. Technical difficulties include the TD Gap (now graded as a Severe rock climb and The Inaccessible Pinnacle (Diff) as well as much complex route finding, stacks of grade 2 and 3 scrambling ground and several other sections of Diff climbing. 

The weather is one of the driving factors in determining the success or otherwise of a Cuillin Ridge Traverse. The rock needs to be dry and visibility needs to be good and of course winds need to be light. May and June are generally the best months of the year and they also give plenty of daylight – another real bonus for big days of scrambling. 

Our Approach to the Cuillin Ridge Traverse 

We have successfully guided several two day traverses and single day traverses over the last 20 years. We have been visiting Skye every year since 1995 and this wealth of experience has shaped our approach to guiding the ridge traverse. 

We will only offer Ridge Traverses to clients that we know and have been scrambling or climbing with. We also insist that they have done some scrambling on Skye so that they know what the Cuillin Ridge entails. (Our 5 day Skye Scrambling course is ideal in this respect). 

One day traverses are only offered on a 1:1 basis. 

Two day traverses (with an overnight bivi) can be offered at a 1:2 basis but both clients must know each other, have climbed together and book together. 

We ask that people join us for 5 days so that we can maximise the chance of grabbing a weather window and use some time stashing bivvy kit if required. 

In addition you need to be happy seconding Severe, be super hill fit and have substantial grade 2 and 3 scrambling experience. You need to specifically train for a successful traverse and good preparation is key. 

For single day traverses we generally suggest avoiding the TD Gap via the bypass route over Sgurr Alasdair (in busy periods we recommend this for all traverses). There are other route options too that merit discussion prior to setting out – not everyone includes Sgurr Dubh Mor for example, arguing that it is an outlier to the main ridge rather than an integral part of the traverse. Collies Ledge or Kings Chimney on Sugar Mhic Choinnich? Which route do you want to take on Am Basteir – short and hard or longer and easier. There is plenty of choice and each have their pros and cons.  

If you fancy a Ridge Traverse – get in touch! rob@expeditionguide.com