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Rob Johnson
Mountaineering Instructor &
International Mountain Leader |
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Super Direct, Dinas Mot, E1 4b, 5b, 5b
& Diagonal - HVS 5a, 5a, 5a, 5a
Dinas Mot is a wonderful crag on the shady side of the Llanberis Pass which makes it a great venue on hot summers days , it also enjoys early morning sun on the Eastern side. It can be alittle slow to dry so you need a couple of dry days. The routes are renowned for offering a wide variety of climbing styles with contrasting pitches.
Super Direct - I climbed this in the spring of 2009 with friend Andy. We climbed Super Direct (E1 5b), Gardd (HVS 5a) and Hornets Attack Victor Mature (E2 5c) and without doubt Super Direct was the climb of the day. The first pitch is fairly steady which is great to warm up into the route. The second pitch is the famous 40metre slab pitch which can be protected by lots of small wires and is an exercise in balancy slab climbing which I like. The top pitch is a thuggish crack pitch that Andy lead in good style and I grunted my way up!
Diagonal - I climbed this in April 2008 with another friend called Andy. I was still living in Worcestershire at the time and we drove up to Wales for the day with the express intention of climbing this route. It is described in Ken Wilsons Hard Rock book as a rite of passage for any HVS leader so we felt it had to be done. The difficulty lies in the route finding and I have seen several leaders on various parts of the crag all claiming to be on this route! The first 3 pitches are all beautiful slab climbing with a physical crack climb finish that the guidebook describes as "responding well to an aggressive approach!"
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