Gogarth, E1 5b
& Lighthouse Arete - VS 4c

Gogarth has a reputation for adventure and for me it never disappoints. There is something very special about abseiling down to the sea, meeting the crashing waves and then knowing you have to climb your way out!

Gogarth - I climbed this in the summer of 2009 with friend Andy. Here is my blog entry: "Well after a few days of consultancy work and even a bit of DIY at home (!!) it was great to be out cragging today in the sunshine. I teamed up with friend Andy and we headed to Gogarth on Anglesey. First off we climbed the route Gogarth which is 5 pitches long and overall graded at E1 5b. The walk in was hot and sweaty and the crag was a little soapy as the sun had not burnt off the sea mist but it was nice to be in the shade. Andy drew the top pitch which is the crux and pulled off a great lead. We then headed to Wen Zawn and climbed Concrete Chimney (HVS 5a) in 2 pitches and topped out just as the rain arrived. No photos I'm afraid as the camera was left on the kitchen worktop!"

Lighthouse Arete - This is probably the easiest route at Gogarth and therefore a great introduction to the crag. I remember the first time that I climbed it we could not see anything because of a thick sea fog, but we could hear the lighthouse foghorn, taste the salt and listen to the crashing waves. The crux 4c pitch is an overhang on the arete but with massive holds and it just feels great to be swinging out over the sea!

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