A History of Mountaineering on Skye

The formation of the Cuillin started 70 million years ago with a series of volcanic eruptions. The prevalent rock is Gabbro, a rough volcanic rock that destroys finger tips and provides fantastic friction for climbers boots. Also present was Basalt which weathers more easily and is more fragile than the Gabbro. The Basalt is easy to spot as it often forms in columns and staircases, it will be slippy when wet and tends not to provide good belays. 

Millions of years of erosion through wind, rain, heat and later on through glaciation reduced the Cuillin down to the size that we know them now. Like all of our mountains they are still shrinking with rockfall and erosion, something to bear in mind when placing that next step!

The first reported successful summit attempt in the Cuillin took place on 7th July 1836. Duncan Macintyre, a local forester, leads scientist James Forbes via the "Tourist Route" to the summit of Sgurr nan Gilean. 

In 1896 the last virgin mountain to be climbed in Britain is ascended by Collie, Howell, Naismith & Mackenzie via its most difficult route on its North Face, Sgurr Coir an Lochain. 

The first complete traverse of the ridge is made in 1911 by L shadbolt and A C Maclaren, with the first winter traverse waiting until 1965 and being made over two days by D Crabbe, B Robertson, T Patey and H Macinnes. 

You can view more photographs of climbing on Skye on our gallery by following this link.