The North Ridge of Tryfan, Ogwen Valley, Snowdonia
Related Courses: Intro to Scrambling Course

The North Ridge of Tryfan is one of the most sought after grade 1 scrambles in England and wales. It ranks alongside Crib Goch in terms of popularity and hence it is not a route that you are likely to find solitude on during any summer weekend or Bank Holiday! Unlike Crib Goch the North Ridge has many possible variations. I don't know how many times I have climbed it but it will be more than 100 times and it is unlikely that I have ever gone exactly the same way twice. That said there are some key features that you will want to see along the way and some important route finding decisions that you will need to make.

The North Ridge of Tryfan is a grade 1 scramble. Scrambling is dangerous and before you undertake the route you should be happy with and accept the BMC participation statement: "The BMC recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions."

When you drive down the Ogwen valley, in either direction, it is the North Ridge of Tryfan that screams out "climb me"! It is a beautiful natural ridge line that sweeps up from the road to the pinnacled summit that houses Adam and Eve, two standing stones that look like people stood on the very summit of the mountain.

I normally park in the layby alongside Tryfan Bach on the A5 and head up along the foot of Tryfan Bach. Head up to the shoulder on the ridge itself and then scramble up through a boulder field and a short rock step. Continue up the left hand side of the broad ridge and you arrive at the Cannon on the right hand side for a quick photo stop. As you progress up the ridge it gets narrower until you reach a large platform below a nose of rock. Unfortunately some halfwit has seen fit to emblazon their name on the rocks at this point. The next section is quite steep for a grade 1 scramble so have a look and see what you make of it. There is an alternative route round to the left which is less steep and exposed.

The descent can be made down the South Ridge and if you want to make a long day of it you can continue up Bristly Ridge and then down the Gribin to complete the Cwm Bochlwyd Horsehoe, a three star outing.

If the North Ridge is busy or if the weather forecast is for high winds then another favourite route of mine is Little and North Gullies from the Heather Terrace on the Easr face of Tryfan. This is another great grade 1 scramble but being a gully is sheltered from the wind until you reach the summit.

Here are some of my photos:

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