What new skills will I learn?
Many of the skills that we all use in the summer are directly
transferable but perhaps need honing to avoid accidents in the harsher
conditions we experience in winter. 80% of all accidents in winter are
attributable to poor navigation so obviously this plays an important
part of the syllabus.
On top of this walkers will, perhaps for the first time, be heading our
into the hills with specialist equipment to ensure their safety. It is no
point having all the gear and no idea of how to use it! Here is a quick run
down of the skills that you can expect to cover over a 5 day course:
Winter
Weather
Even more than summer you need to plan your day according to the weather
when heading our in winter. You need to know a past history of wind speed
and direction to assess avalanche danger, understand the difference between
valley and summit temperatures, comprehend the impact of wind chill on
exposed skin, know the effect of the wind on exposed ridges and have an
understanding of the influences on mountain weather that we experience in
the UK. We also look at cold injuries including frostbite and
hypothermia and how to avoid them.
Avalanche
Awareness and Avoidance
People are killed and seriously hurt every year in Scotland due to
avalanches. They are common in Scotland and you need to know how to avoid
them if you intend to go out in winter. There are various contributing
factors to avalanche including snowfall, angle of slope, differing layers of
snow type, sunshine and rising temperatures. They also come in many forms
including Loose snow avalanches, Full Depth, Unconfined, Airborne Powder,
Slab Avalanche, Surface Avalanche, channeled and flowing avalanches. We will
look at the various causes, how to avoid them and what to do if you witness
or get caught in an avalanche.
Movement on
Snow and Ice
Its far better to learn how to move efficiently on snow and ice, so as
to avoid a slip or a fall, than to be an expert on ice axe self-arrest. Who
would you rather be tied to, the mountaineer that never falls or the falling
expert! We spend time looking at movement skills and the effect of the snow
type on movement as well as the use of the axe and crampons to avoid slips
and trips. We may also look at emergency use of the rope.
The Ice Axe
This is the basic tool of the winter mountaineer and its use should be
considered a craft worth investing some time into. We will provide advice on
a suitable axe on the first day of the course but here are some tips.
- Forget the old adage that an ice axe should be long enough to reach
your ankle when held with a straight arm down by your side. This is
generally too long and will be a nuisance when performing self arrest.
Hold the pick at shoulder height with the shaft running across your
body. The spike should be no lower than waist height and your spare hand
should be able to cover the spike whilst being in against your hip.
- A removable leash is a good thing. Sometimes they are useful for
cutting steps, most of the time though they are just a nuisance.
- Make sure you are using a mountaineering axe and not an ice climbing
tool. A mountaineering axe will generally have a straight shaft and
gently curved pick.
We will teach you how to carry the axe when you are unlikely to need it
and when travelling across ground where it might be useful. We will also look
at step cutting, glissading, self belay, and ice axe braking in its various
guises.
Crampons
Knowing when to put crampons on and then take them off again is a
valuable skill that can save a great deal of time, discomfort and possibly
avoid nasty accidents. We will show you how to put them on, walking and
climbing techniques and progress to cramponing up steeper snow slopes.
It is generally important to keep the feet flat on the snow/ice surface when
wearing crampons, to enable all of the points to grip. This can often feel
alien, being the opposite of the edging technique we would use without
crampons, but is a valuable skill to learn. We will also look at the
American technique, front pointing and the French technique.
Equipment
& Clothing
The Scottish winter environment is unique and places high demands on our
clothing and equipment as mountaineers.
The traditional layering system is still the best as far as I am concerned.
On a normal day I wear Merino Wool thermals, a fleece jumper and gillet,
Mammut softshell trousers and then either Goretex, Event or Paramo outer
shell jacket and trousers. I carry 3 pairs of gloves (Mountain Equipment
Guide Gloves) and 2 hats and a balaclava, as well as a pair of mittens for
really cold days.
Goggles are essential, as are a quality pair of sunglasses and some sun
cream - just in case!
Snow
Shelters
In a Scottish Winter environment tents are just not up to the job when
it comes to overnight trips in the mountains. Snow shelters are warmer, more
wind and weather resistant and won't blow down!
We will teach you how to build emergency 1 man shelters for unplanned bivvys
and full shelters for planned overnight stops. The type depends on the snow
conditions but could include a shovel-up, igloo, snow cave or snow coffin.
We will look at the importance of good ventilation, kit organisation and
insulation.
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