| Top Tips - Abseil Retreats
I am not going to tell
you how to abseil, this article assumes you have already had
professional training and aims to give you some top tips to avoid
and solve problems.
1. Use a cowstail on multiple
abseils. This will be your point of attachment at the anchor points.
I tend to abseil down with the screwgate krab on the end clipped
around the rope that I need to pull - it just stops me forgetting.
When you reach the next abseil anchor build your new belay and clip
into it with your cowstail before removing your abseil device and
prussik. You can use a sling for a
cowstail but much better is to make one from a cut off section of
climbing rope because it is then dynamic.
Here you can see the cowstail also extends the abseil
device away from the harness which has the added advantage of moving
it away from the prussik. If the prussik runs into the abseil device
it will not bite. In this photo the cowstail has been clipped round
the back of the harness out of the way until the climber needs it at
the next set of anchors.
2. Let the heaviest person go first....and
backup the anchor! The backup can be a extra piece of gear that is
bombproof and is connected with only a little slack but no weight on
it. If the main anchor holds then this can be removed for the last
person.
3. When pulling your ropes down from a piece
of tat always pull the rope at the back against the crag. This will
run better and be less likely to jam. You have to arrange the knot
this way of course if you have joined 2 ropes together.
4. Jammed Ropes - Check the ropes run before
you abseil and make sure that they are nut going to jam in cracks on
the way down. If they still jam then try pulling on the
"wrong" rope a little to get them moving. Walking back
from the crag also often helps to reduce the friction. If needs be
you can prussik back up both strands to free them and abseil back
down. Never prussik up one end of a stuck rope (ie on just one
strand of a rope that pulled and then jammed) - in case it frees
itself!
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