Climb Island Peak, Nepal
Location: Island Peak, Nepal – 6189m via Everest Base Camp and Kala Patar
Price: £2600 per person excluding international flights
Ratio: There are six spaces. The ratio of guides to clients works out at 1:3.
Length: 24 days including travelling time
The objective of the trip is to climb Island Peak which sits at 6189m and has a beautiful snow arete as we approach the summit. The trip will be lead at a 1:3 ratio as it involves some climbing and some fixed ropes. We will acclimatise slowly and on the way visit Everest Base Camp and climb Kala Patar which at 5600m gives some of the best views of Everest in the word. This is a 3 week trip that allows plenty of time for acclimatisation in a small group to ensure the maximum chance of summit success. The group is half the size of most commercial companies and the climbing ratio of 1:3 is also very unusual to give a high chance of success and a high level of safety. You need to be fit, have done a winter skills course and a winter mountaineering course with us and have a sense of adventure! Spaces are limited to ensure a small team that will get on well and have a greater chance of success.
Summary of the Trek
We will fly to Kathmandu from where we will be transferred to a comfortable hotel for a night. The following day we fly to Lukla and then our trek begins.
Accommodation is in a nice hotel in Kathmandu, trekking lodges (think basic hostels) whilst trekking and then camping from High Camp.
We will take eleven days to reach Everest Base camp with rest days along the way. We will then have a pleasant trek to Island Peak Base Camp with a view to summiting on day 18 of the expedition. This gives lots of room for acclimatisation.
We then have 3 days to trek back to Lukla and two nights in Kathmandu in a fine hotel to celebrate our trip!
Mid October to the end of November is the classic trekking season in Nepal. It is famed for clear skies and fantastic weather. It is usual over a 3 week trip to have two or three periods of drizzle and the odd snow shower at altitude and the evenings will be chilly. At 3800m an average night time temperature is -4c and average daytime temperature is 10c. This drops with altitude and at our high camp temperatures may be as low as -30c.
We will be met at Kathmandu airport. The course fee does not include the price of your flight from the UK to Kathmandu but I will let you know which flight to book so that we all fly out together from London.
The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and back is included in the course fee.
Day 1: Depart London
Day 2: Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel Shanker
Day 3: flight to Lukla / Trekking Lodge
Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3400m) and overnight in a Tea House
Day 5: Rest Day for acclimatisation
Day 6: Trek to Deboche (3700m)
Day 7: Trek to Dingboche (4400m)
Day 8: Rest Day for acclimatisation
Day 9: Trek to Dugla (4600m)
Day 10: Trek to Lobuje (4940m)
Day 11: Trek to Gorak Shep (5220m)
Day 12: Trek to Everest Base Camp (5350m) and return to Gorak Shep
Day 13: Climb Kala Patar (5545m) and descend to Lobuje (4940m)
Day 14: Trek to Chukung
Day 15: Rest Day in Chukung
Day 16: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5000m)
Day 17: Move to Island Peak High Camp (5600m)
Day 18: Island Peak Ascent (6189m)
The first piece of ground that we tackle on summit day is a rock gully that provides several short rock steps of grade 1 scrambling. The route then follows a ridge line, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. We will rope up for the glacier to avoid dropping into any of the crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 350ft/100m snow and ice slope (40-45°) on which we will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge lead to the top. After enjoying the summit views we will descend all the way to our base camp.
Days 19-21: Return to Lukla
Day 22 Return to Kathmandu
Day 23: Rest Day in Kathmandu
Day 24: Fly from Kathmandu to London
As with any mountainous expedition this can be subject to change.
There will be a UK training day in July 2014 for the team to meet each other and to practise the skills that we will require in Nepal.
The cost includes:
All arrival & departure transfers in Kathmandu
3 nights accommodation at Hotel Shanker including breakfast
Trek accommodation 19 days
3 meals a day will be provided for 4 days whilst camping at Island Peak
2 x International Mountain Leaders
Luggage porter (1 porter for 2 clients- Maximum permissable load per porter is 30 kg)
National park permit and Climbing permit
The cost Excludes:
Visa fees – currently £35 for a 30 day trip
Meals other than breakfast in Kathmandu
Any meals during accommodation at guest house / tea house during trek
Any expenses of personal nature as bar bills, laundry,telephone
Travel and medical insurance
Evacuation by helicopter
Optional trips and tours
Cancellation & Insurance
This trip is classed as an overseas expedition and is subject to our terms and conditions of booking so please make sure you read them before committing to the trip. Once you book an expedition I will reserve that space for you, hire local and UK staff and make arrangments in the country we are visiting. Hopefully you will have no need to cancel but if you do I will try and re-sell the space for you. A deposit is required to book the course and is non-refundable. If you cancel less than 16 weeks before the course starts I can only offer a refund once I have sold the space on your behalf. Please take out cancellation insurance at your time of booking in case the unexpected happens. (Travel insurance is mandatory for the expedition anyway)
Each course member must have with them and show proof of insurance for the duration of the course on the first evening ie personal accident, rescue and public liability. Our approved insurance contractors are:
BMC: 0870 0104878 www.thebmc.co.uk
We will send you a detailed kit list when you book. Some of the specialist kit that you will need includes:
Plastic mountaineering boots ie Scarpa Vega or Scarpa Omega Thermo
Four season sleeping bag
Ice Axe – I can lend you free of charge
Crampons – I can lend you free of charge
Helmet – I can lend you free of charge
Harness – I can lend you free of charge
Fitness & Health
It is worth pointing out that this is a remote mountain adventure. That has many positive points but on of the downsides is that if you become ill or injured then evacuation is very difficult. I therefore need every trip member to be fit and healthy before we leave and stay that way! For that reason I will send everyone that books a medical declaration that I need completed and returned to me ASAP.
The fitter you are, the more you will enjoy this trip. It is essential that you do some training in advance to prepare yourself. The sooner you can start a training programme the better, but its never too late.
To enjoy the trek you need to be happy walking all day with a rucksack on your back for 7 days in a row. An average day will involve 6 hours of trekking with the summit day being a twelve hour day. An ideal training programme would be to spend as many weekends as possible walking in the mountains prior to the trip. If you can bag one or two summits on each day that you go out your fitness will soon improve.
Additionally you should aim for three sessions a week of aerobic exercise to get the heart pumping. I find swimming particularly good as it is a low impact all round work out but cycling and brisk walking are equally suitable.
Whatever exercise you choose start off very easily and slowly increase the duration of the exercise. Make sure you warm up before hand to avoid muscle pain and warm down slowly at the end. Vary your weekly routine or you will soon get bored.
Once I recieve and confirm your booking I will send you a complete dossier that provides full and detailed information on the program, health preparations, kit list, accommodation etc.