Scottish Winter Climbing Grades
Scottish Winter Climbing Grades can seem complex at first glance but once you get your head around them they work well at describing the difficulty and the seriousness of a route.
In the 1990’s the Scottish Mountaineering Council (SMC) – now called Mountaineering Scotland – revised the previous grading system to a two tier system that is used to this day.
The system uses a Roman Numeral to describe the overall difficulty of the climb and then an accompanying Arabic numeral to describe the technicality of the hardest move. This comes into its own on the harder technical climbs – specifically mixed routes – and is not required on the easier grades. This gives us the following system:
Grade I
Snow gullies and easy ridges.
Grade II
Steep snow where two ice tools may be required but technical difficulties are short. Possible difficult cornice exit.
Grade III
Mixed ascents of moderate rock routes; icy gullies; sustained buttresses.
Grade IV
Steep ice with short vertical steps or long pitches up to 70º, or mixed routes requiring advanced techniques.
Grade V
Sustained ice to 80º or mixed climbs with linked hard moves. Climbs are difficult, sustained, and/or serious.
Grade VI
Vertical ice and highly technical mixed routes. Grade VI and above routes have exceptional overall difficulties.
Grade VII
Multi-pitch routes with long sections of vertical or thin ice, or mixed routes with lots of highly technical climbing.
VIII-IX
The hardest routes in Scotland. Canadian Winter
Scottish Technical Grade
Grade IV and above (and some mixed grade III routes) get an additional grade for pitches within the climb. For example, a grade V climb might look like V 4, V 5, V 6 or even V 7. The average within them is the V 5 which could be seen as a benchmark grade V. The V 6 and V 7 will be hard, and V8 very hard and intricate climbing, but should have good protection. If the number is lower though, such as V 4 then the route may not be as technical as it is serious. We can use this knowledge to our advantage when choosing routes where we want to push our technical grade but still be reasonably well protected.

Useful Links
SAIS – Scottish Avalanche Information Service
The North Wales White Guide – A guide to winter climbing conditions in North Wales
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